Handloom of Gujarat
Patola
The double-ikat of Patan — one saree, six months, four Salvi families still alive.
History
Origins & patronage
The Patan Patola is the technically hardest saree woven anywhere in the world. It is a double-ikat, meaning both the warp and the weft threads are resist-dyed individually to a plan before weaving — so the pattern only "emerges" when the two align on the loom. The tradition arrived in Gujarat in the 12th century when the Solanki king Kumarapala invited 700 weaver families from Jalna in the Deccan; only four of those families — the Salvis of Patan — still practise the authentic double-ikat method. Each saree takes four to six months of continuous work by two weavers on a single loom and can cost between two and ten lakh rupees.
Motifs & identifiers
Signature vocabulary
Signature "pan bhat" (peepal-leaf), "chhabdi bhat" (basket), "narikunj bhat" (women-and-parrot-and-flowers), "vohra gaji bhat" (geometric brocade) motifs; blocky, jewel-tone colours (deep red, ochre, indigo, emerald) achieved with natural vegetable dyes; identical pattern on both sides (double-ikat property); border and body woven as one continuous fabric — no korvai/petni.
Weaving villages
Where it is woven
Patan (North Gujarat) is the ONLY place where genuine double-ikat Patola is woven, exclusively by the four Salvi families. A single-ikat imitation called Rajkot Patola is woven around Rajkot — the two are commonly confused.
How to spot a real one
Authenticity guide
Look at the motif from both sides — a genuine Patan Patola is indistinguishable front-to-back; any Patola with a discernible "wrong side" is Rajkot single-ikat. Look for tiny colour bleed at the edges of each motif (the "flame" edge is the mark of hand-tied resist dyeing); check for the Patan GI hologram and Silk Mark.
From our collection
Shop Patola sarees
Play the game
Test yourself on all 15 weaves
Can you tell a Kanjivaram from a Kanchipuram silk imitation? A Bishnupur Baluchari from a Bhagalpur Tussar? Ten rounds, one saree per round.
Take the Guess the Saree quiz →