Handloom of Gujarat / Rajasthan

Bandhani

The tie-and-dye of Kutch and Marwar — 5,000-year-old dot artistry.

Weaving centreJamnagar
StateGujarat / Rajasthan

History

Origins & patronage

Bandhani (or Bandhej) is one of the oldest tie-dye traditions in the world — Indus Valley archaeological finds at Mohenjo-Daro (2500 BCE) show evidence of tie-dye textiles. The technique arrived in Gujarat and Rajasthan with the Khatri community, who trace their arrival to Sindh in the 12th century. Every Khatri family in Jamnagar, Bhuj, Kutch, Sikar and Jodhpur has a hereditary specialty of Bandhani design and dye colour. A single Bandhani saree is tied by hand — sometimes 75,000 individual knots (bandhs) per saree — and then dyed in stages so the untied threads show colour and the tied dots stay in the base colour. Both Gujarat and Rajasthan Bandhanis have separate GI tags.

Motifs & identifiers

Signature vocabulary

Countless tiny dots (bandhs) forming larger patterns — chandrakala (moon-and-stars), bavan baug (52-garden), shikari (hunting scenes), rasmandal (dance-circle); traditional colours are turmeric yellow, madder red, indigo blue, black; the more dots per square inch, the higher the grade; a real bandhani retains a slightly puckered "gathered" texture from the tie-dye process — never fully flat.

Weaving villages

Where it is woven

Jamnagar, Bhuj and villages of Kutch (Gujarat) for the Kutchi Bandhani; Sikar, Jaipur, Jodhpur (Rajasthan) for the Marwari Bandhani. Combined, about 25,000 Khatri families are involved in the trade.

How to spot a real one

Authenticity guide

A real hand-tied Bandhani has a slightly puckered texture from the tie-dye — the fabric does not lie flat; each dot has a slightly imperfect edge (unlike a printed dot which is machine-perfect); flip the fabric — dots appear on both sides equally; look for the Gujarat or Rajasthan Bandhani GI tag depending on origin.

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