Handloom of Odisha
Sambalpuri
Odisha’s bandha-ikat — shankh, chakra and lotus tied into the yarn.
History
Origins & patronage
The Sambalpuri saree comes from Sambalpur district in western Odisha, with historical evidence of the weave going back to the 12th century under the Chauhan dynasty. It gained modern national fame when Indira Gandhi wore Sambalpuri sarees through the 1970s and 1980s. The bandha technique — yarn tied and dyed before weaving — is closely related to Pochampally and Patola ikat, but with a distinct Odia motif vocabulary and softer colour palette. The weave received a GI tag in 2010.
Motifs & identifiers
Signature vocabulary
Bandha (tie-dye of yarn before weaving) ikat; iconic motifs include shankha (conch), chakra (wheel), phul (flower), lotus, deer, elephant, and terracotta figures; the traditional palette is deep red, black, cream, indigo blue and yellow — a distinctly earthy Odia palette; borders are often woven in a contrasting solid colour to frame the ikat body.
Weaving villages
Where it is woven
Sambalpur town, Barpali, Bargarh and Sonepur are the primary weaving centres with a combined 8,000 handlooms.
How to spot a real one
Authenticity guide
The motifs have a "flame" or feathered edge like other ikats but with distinctly Odia iconography (conch, wheel, lotus) rather than the geometric medallions of Pochampally; the cotton feels slightly stiff and holds a crisp drape; look for the Odisha Handloom mark and the Sambalpuri GI tag.
From our collection
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