Handloom of Madhya Pradesh

Chanderi

Sheer silk-cotton of the Betwa river — the "woven air" of central India.

Weaving centreChanderi
StateMadhya Pradesh

History

Origins & patronage

Chanderi weaving is documented in the town of Chanderi in the Ashoknagar district of Madhya Pradesh from at least the 11th century, when the town sat on a strategic trade route between Malwa, the Deccan, and Rajputana. The weave came into prominence under the Bundela Rajputs of Orchha and later the Scindia rulers of Gwalior. The classical Chanderi is a katan-silk-warp with cotton-weft blend that produces a translucent, glass-like sheer texture — hence the name "buner-jaal" (spider’s web) that Persian traders gave it. In 2005 the weave received a Geographical Indication tag.

Motifs & identifiers

Signature vocabulary

Sheer transparent body (silk warp, cotton weft, or all-silk katan for the higher grades); buti motifs including asharfi (coin), dandi (stalk), jhelar (crown-like border), coin-and-peacock; delicate bootis are woven in with small wooden needles (the kaidhri method) leaving small floats on the reverse; light-catching zari borders in three widths — patti, keral or bugdi.

Weaving villages

Where it is woven

Weaving centred in Chanderi town itself (about 3,500 active weavers), with satellite production in Prannath ka Bagh and small villages in Ashoknagar and Guna districts.

How to spot a real one

Authenticity guide

Hold the Chanderi to sunlight — a genuine katan Chanderi is translucent, you can read a headline through it; the buti motifs have visible reverse floats (unlike Banarasi kadhwa which is clean-reverse); the weave has an unmistakable stiff-but-airy hand that no synthetic imitation reproduces. Look for the GI hologram sticker.

From our collection

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