Handloom of Madhya Pradesh
Chanderi
Sheer silk-cotton of the Betwa river — the "woven air" of central India.
History
Origins & patronage
Chanderi weaving is documented in the town of Chanderi in the Ashoknagar district of Madhya Pradesh from at least the 11th century, when the town sat on a strategic trade route between Malwa, the Deccan, and Rajputana. The weave came into prominence under the Bundela Rajputs of Orchha and later the Scindia rulers of Gwalior. The classical Chanderi is a katan-silk-warp with cotton-weft blend that produces a translucent, glass-like sheer texture — hence the name "buner-jaal" (spider’s web) that Persian traders gave it. In 2005 the weave received a Geographical Indication tag.
Motifs & identifiers
Signature vocabulary
Sheer transparent body (silk warp, cotton weft, or all-silk katan for the higher grades); buti motifs including asharfi (coin), dandi (stalk), jhelar (crown-like border), coin-and-peacock; delicate bootis are woven in with small wooden needles (the kaidhri method) leaving small floats on the reverse; light-catching zari borders in three widths — patti, keral or bugdi.
Weaving villages
Where it is woven
Weaving centred in Chanderi town itself (about 3,500 active weavers), with satellite production in Prannath ka Bagh and small villages in Ashoknagar and Guna districts.
How to spot a real one
Authenticity guide
Hold the Chanderi to sunlight — a genuine katan Chanderi is translucent, you can read a headline through it; the buti motifs have visible reverse floats (unlike Banarasi kadhwa which is clean-reverse); the weave has an unmistakable stiff-but-airy hand that no synthetic imitation reproduces. Look for the GI hologram sticker.
From our collection
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